April 22, 2007

Hello All,

And Jambo from East Africa. We all arrived safely and uneventfully, and the welcoming sign of "Rotary GSE Team" waiting for us on arrival in Nairobi. The trip being very long, and late, we stayed in Nairobi as guests of Isaac Gitoho, and refreshed with breakfast and a short history of Kenya and the 9200 District before heading over to Mombasa. As we walked out onto the patio at the Mombasa airport, about 15 smiling faces met us, greeted us, and asked why the Team Leader wasn't with the group--because they didn't see anyone with a hat!! So it seems my reputation precedes me, and now I'm supposed to wear a hat everywhere I go here too. Guess that's OK, since my hair leaves alot to be desired in this humidity. We are all safely housed with delightful hosts, and are being treated royally, with Bunjari (very welcome) spirit of Kenya. Last night the 5 Rotary Clubs around Mombasa treated us to a SunDowner, a wonderful BBQ in a small game park, with introductions and camaraderie. So far, I have mastered nearly everyone's name, but there are some I still have to learn as the week progresses. The sunset was awesome, over the heads of Eland and Giraffe grazing about 20 feet from us, and nothing could replace the feeling of being at home among friends. Many of you were remembered and I send greetings from Mombasa Rotarians and Friends to all--sharing that you had all sent your regards as well. Musti and I already have a running dialogue about "nuts and fruits" from California, thanks to Marge Cole!

Our itinerary starts in full tomorrow, with our first District Shared Funds presentation and 3 other visits to clinics and support services--followed by swimming and dinner on beach with Musti and his lovely wife Shakira. The rest of the week promises 5 Rotary visits, and 7 more vocational visits around Mombasa, time with our host families, and then back to Nairobi to begin again in that region.

This is awesome, and to quote one of our team members "this is NOTHING like I expected it to be--it is SO, SO much more!!" I can't argue with that--and can only say we are all enchanted, awed, and embarking on an adventure that will change our lives and perhaps in some small way, the lives of those we touch on this trip.

Asante, Asante, Rotary for sending us and our families and friends for supporting us on this trip. We thank you all, and will send another update very soon.

April 25, 2007

Hello To All !!

What a fantastic week so far--we have been to several healthcare facilities and seen the gaps between the best and the toughest in terms of resources, patient loads, and the challenges that are here in every neighborhood, on every street corner. There is much good work being done, and much more aggressively than in our own country--and also much to be done. The children are a focus, and that is ever-present in everyone's conversation. We have been on pretty tight schedules, mixing in Rotary meetings and presentations with visits to HIV treatment facilities and handicapped boarding schools, all of which are moving us and making us aware of so many projects that could be done between our districts.

The Mombasa Rotarians are the most gracious hosts--wining and dining us in their homes, and on the water, giving us the hospitality and taste of life in Mombasa and the more relaxed atmosphere they enjoy. The team is awesome, keeping to the schedule without difficulty, and hungering for even more visits to vocational areas where we can see for ourselves the differences that can be made. Our presentation to clubs sharpens each time we give it, and we'll be "pros" very soon at giving a lot of information in the usual Rotary 20 minute program!

We are here until Saturday morning, then off to Nairobi to begin our GSE experiences there. It's all about the people we are meeting and the gaps in human needs we are experiencing--and sadly, it is hard to convey in this short update to you. We will have much to share on our return.

Jambo to All, I must go, our driver is here for another exciting and wonderful day! More later, when we have another chance for an internet connection!

April 28, 2007

Hello to All, Friends and Rotarians--

Jambo from Nairobi !! We have left Mombasa, with the send-off of new friends, and cannot believe the hospitality we were shown. We all feel as though we are now "family" in the homes of the most gracious Rotarians, and are really feeling very much honored as the GSE Team. Our energy and responsiveness, and our willingness to go as many places as we could possibly go, despite the oppressive heat and humidity, mosquitoes and centipedes, we have been everywhere possible in the week there. The contrasts are so strong I can scarcely speak of them...we have seen a part of the world that Rotary was meant to serve, and make better at all costs. Never before have we viewed such abject poverty, and facilities operating on the absolute absence of resources. Indeed, more than one place has had no washing facilities to launder patient linens, and the room beds are covered with soiled ones, if they have any at all. It's not for lack of knowledge or lack of interest or lack of concern...it's for lack of resources. I have been humbled by a TB clinic administrator who has put himself on the front line in this kind of conditions for 10 years, yet smiles and shakes my hand, and gives me his outline of an aggressive "year work plan" to be submitted to the government for assistance. Sort of like our "goal planning" but much, much more meaningful and serious. He merely wants a washing machine and a drain screen for the maternity ward--what could possibly stand in the way of such a need??

On the other side of the picture, we have been hosted royally, including nights of fellowship and camaraderie, the most delicious foods, gifts, and a multitude of "kisses on the cheek" which is the custom here, so we can't even begin to reciprocate. What kind people, and I can only hope many of them will come to visit us one day. We left Saturday morning, and as it is 10 hours different from us to you, we will be sleeping when you read this (hopefully! we've been so busy that "sleeping when I'm dead" takes on new meaning!!) and wish you all well. We have seen no news of America, so are a bit oblivious of what has been going on at home, immersing ourselves in news of what's going on in Kenya. We spend the rest of the week here, seeing multiple facilities and partaking of Nairobi Rotarian hospitality. The American Ambassador to Kenya will join us for a cocktail party later this week, and I've been asked to speak with him personally about GSE and the good work Rotary does around the world. I will try to be the best communicator possible for this unique opportunity, send me your good wishes!!

Cheers to Everyone, wish us well for this week in Nairobi, and we will update you all again very soon. Missing you all !

In Rotary Service,
Beverly

April 30, 2007

Hello All, another update from Nairobi !!

We have begun our busy week here, and today visited the local Children's hospital to see how their operation runs. It is a very fine facility, with dedicated people, and their challenges are their outlying clinics in the slum sections of the city of Nairobi. We will also be seeing several Rotary projects during the week, and visiting a number of Clubs here in the city. It is quite a bit more formal in Nairobi, and we are re-adjusting ourselves to the different approach and more business-like atmosphere. The people, and especially our hosts, are delightful and most accommodating, being certain our every need and wish is taken care of.

The rest of this week will be full of healthcare visits, but there is also more time to be "with the people" and learn more culturally rich customs, foods, vocabulary, and economics/politics. I will have more to report later in the week, and until then we hope all is well with our District as we continue this extraordinary experience!

Mai 4, 2007

Hello Rotarians, Friends, Families--

As our stay in Nairobi comes to an end, it's time to update you on our travels once again. We have seen 11 facilities in 5 days in and around Nairobi, many of which are Rotary projects--and many that we hope soon will be. We've visited 6 Rotary Club meetings, and had 5 fellowship times with our gracious hosts--the last being this evening with visiting dignitaries that will include the American Ambassador to Kenya and several others. We hope to have an opportunity to visit with them, and add to the collaborative efforts that have been so richly cultivated over the years with District 9200. It is a rare opportunity--I will try to represent Rotary well.

The things that come to mind as I write this are the contrasts we have seen. From plenty to poverty, from resource deficits to over-abundance, from health to chronic sickness, from beauty to devastation, from clean and pure to dirty and rotting--all these have moved us, increased awareness for so much that has been done already and so much that still MUST be done in a world where travel makes it impossible to ignore that we are all connected. The more we explore our differences, the more we see how much we are the same. Except for an accident of birth, each of us could be that child standing in diseased water without clothes or hope of a future, and it makes me proud to know that Rotary of all organizations can and does make a difference whenever it can.

We have spent most of our waking hours with people, our gracious hosts and those who have taken time out of busy operations to show us their facilities and discuss common issues--and what a time we have had! Kenyans are above all friendly and welcoming, and we have been warmly received wherever we go, regardless of time of day or change in schedule, or last minute issues with itineraries. Nothing has shaken their hospitality, and with the demands on us it is easy to interfere with their best laid plans--so we are trying hard not to do that whenever possible.

Rotary meetings are very fun, and as diverse as they are in our District--each having their own flavor and traditions. I think I have mentioned that I have even been fined twice, so I guess some things never change no matter where on the planet one does a Rotary MakeUp.

We are off early in the morning for a 3 day "break" on a Safari in Masai Mara, which we are told is the best of the wildlife safaris in Kenya, and that this time of year we should see everything--and also, that we should not leave our tents at night unless we wish to become snacks for the locals. I for one am looking forward to being among these beautiful animals, and will be reluctant to leave I am sure, and to also having some quiet moments for the next few days to renew and revitalize our common purpose and goals for being here--and I am sure the team needs that reflection and relaxation time as well.

We appreciate your thoughts and good wishes as we travel, and I will try to update you again from our next stop, Kisumu. Until then, wish us safe travels among the lions and cape buffalos of Masai Mara!

Mai 4, 2007

Coastweek Article

Mai 8, 2007

Hello Rotarians, Friends, and Families--

Greetings again from East Africa! We have had a wonderful 2.5 days in the Masai Mara, and the list of animals and birds we saw up close and personal is huge. In fact, the only thing we DIDN'T see was a cheetah--a small disappointment, but was made up for in spades when we were able to see a fresh lion kill, and the lion pride taking care of the circle of life. It was awesome animal behavior at it's "National Geographic Best" and we were impressed. And very glad the lions were well fed on hippo rather than GSE tourists.

After a relaxing and exhilarating couple of days, we flew back to Nairobi and took a van for 3 hours to Nakuru, where we stayed the night with Rotary families, visited the Nakuru national flamingo sanctuary, and actually observed a hyena hunt there as well. Truly amazing--and this is the only place in the world one can see the multitudes of flamingos during their migration. What a sight! We then were able to tour the local provincial hospital, and see Rotary Conservation Corps project in action, followed by a meeting with the Nakuru Rotary Club and a warm send off to Kisumu. The traffic and roads in this part of Kenya are very difficult to drive. Pot holes the size of Texas dot the entire width of a very narrow 2 lane highway, and the exhaust and dust from oil trucks, construction vehicles, "matutus" which are the Kenyan version of Volkswagen bus taxis, choke you and burn your eyes, while drivers are all over the place, except on their side of the road. It was "near miss" more often than not, for 3 hours yesterday and 4 today, with the promise of several more hours at the end of the week driving into and through Uganda. I was fearfully reminded many times that the emergency transport system is non-functional here, and that a car accident, even if you survived impact, is most likely fatal since you can't get to medical care in time for emergencies. So, with the best of intentions, we tried to nap in the car--more to ease the stress of watching oncoming traffic than anything else! But know that our drivers, whoever they have been while we are here, have been magnificent and very capable, knowing the roads and road conditions, as well as the Kenyan traffic etiquette--so I know we are in good hands regardless of how it feels! So far none of us has been ill, so we're hoping that we don't have need of medical care as a side effect from Mr. Toad's Wild Ride.

The differences in healthcare facilities as we move north and west are starting to take shape, and DeDe, our veterinarian, has also had many opportunities for visiting and learning from the local vet facilities, which is bringing a perspective different from the rest of us. We continue to share our thoughts and experiences with Rotarians here, and are looking forward to sharing with all of you when we get back. Keep us in your thoughts as we continue to travel, and I will write you again as we head for Uganda, the Pygmy clinic, and finally the District 9200 Conference in Kampala.

Mai 10, 2007

Hello to All,

Our final greetings from the beautiful country of Kenya. We are off to Uganda this morning, to spend our final ten days in that lovely country. We will be met on the border by Rotarian Andrew Mutenga, who has been instrumental in organizing this entire experience for us, and I'm looking forward to thanking him for his efforts on our behalf.

It is rumored we will travel 8-10 hours to the Clinic serving the Pygmy Nation in Uganda, and then be back in time for fun and fellowship at the District 9200 District Conference, where we will meet another GSE team who has been traveling in Tanzania. I am told we have an honored place on the program to talk about our experiences--and believe me, we could fill up the entire conference if they let us!

Kisumu and Vihiga Rotary Clubs here have been wonderful hosts, and we really were able to experience "hands on" work at the very basic levels. A hospital here posted signs that "the American Medical Team" was here, to come for a free clinic, and "all special needs will be addressed". It was unbelievable...we were not prepared to do patient care, and the comfort levels rose to an all time high for us...but we managed to be involved. Then, they sent us for the afternoon to a very remote clinic to help with mother/child vaccinations. Instead, we were inundated with 2 schools full of children, coming to see the "munzungus", and it wasn't even controlled chaos. By the time we finished seeing the kids, it was late, we were tired, and we hoped we made a difference in their healthcare that day!

All else will have to wait for later--we're off to Uganda!

Mai 14, 2007

Dear Rotary Friends and Families,

Greetings from Uganda--and what experiences we have had in the last few days. We left Kisumu for a long drive to Kampala, and stayed overnight there--then left again the next day for another 8 hours on the Postal Bus to Kabale. The bus was an experience in itself. We were packed in like sardines, and tried to keep a sense of humor as the radio blared and the non-existent shocks in the bus gave us all backaches. Dr. Scott Kellerman just happened to be in Kampala, so he joined us, knowing we were a little green in the bus travel division--and it gave us good time to get to know him since we were on our way to spend 2 days with him at the Bwindi Medical Clinic. The bus stopped in each little village and town, to drop mail and pick up passengers, so there was "standing room only" and people crammed into one another for the bumpy ride. Vendors tapped windows, selling grilled meats, fruits, and at one stop bags full of fried grasshoppers--a Ugandan treat. We could see them pulling legs and wings off and tossing them into hot oil, salting and bagging the little critters for crunchy snacking. Everyone resisted the temptation to try them, and the little girl sitting in front of me crunched through a whole bag en route to the next stop.

The eight hours were rather grueling, and we were very glad to meet our Kabale Rotarian host and be checked into a guest house for showers and dinner, and sleep before leaving again for another long and tortuous ride to Buhoma--and a short visit to Scott's operation. After a comedy of errors trying to gas up cars and negotiate costs, we drove the short 80 kilometers in just over 4 hours. Road conditions, needless to say, were washed out and non-paved, so the trip took arduous time. On arrival, we stretched our legs with a walk in the Bwindi Rainforest, where the Mountain Gorillas are the last survivors of their species, and protected. We did not see them, you have to trek all day to do so, but the waterfalls and rainforest were spectacular, very worth the trip. Dinner with our host Dr. Scott gave us time to hear the history of the Bwindi Health Center, which has had much Rotary involvement over the years, and the success shows. The major medical issues in this area are diseases of poverty, and poverty is so very obvious among the villages and farms we have seen. Dr. Scott is also the principal medical provider along with his staff and countless volunteers, for the Batwa Pygmy tribe. So....we were invited to join him for an outreach clinic to Mpungu, where we were all welcomed with dancing and drumming, then held clinic for around 40-50 kids and adults, mostly suffering from malaria and other ailments. It was a very "hands-on" day, and we were all moved by the poverty, the needs, and the way medicine is practiced in this kind of environment. Each team member helped, including our Vet who saw and treated some of the village goats!

The long day finally over, even cold showers sound good, and we will relax with Dr. Scott and several of the other volunteers who are around, including one young man who is doing a documentary on the Pygmies and their culture, with the hope of helping preserve this part of the world and this aboriginal tribe as much as possible. This is indeed another world here, and things will never be the same for us having been here, even for 2 short days.

Tomorrow, early, we leave by car for a very long drive back to Kampala--expected to be about 10 hours--and get settled in for the District 9200 Conference. Our schedule will be packed with seeing all our new friends, giving presentations, and meeting other GSE teams who have been in this district over the past few weeks, and I will extend greetings from all of you at home. I have the feeling we will be honored with many visits in the future from the many new Rotarian friends we have made in these past 4 weeks.

Send us your good wishes as we spend time on the road, as it is by far the most dangerous place in East Africa! I will update you once more, from Kampala, and then, we'll be home!

Mai 18, 2007

Hello Rotarians, Families, Friends--

The early morning brought a tropical rainstorm and I sat outside on the veranda of my room overlooking Lake Victoria, watching the drama of the storm and enjoying the power, the energy, and the life of it all. It is easy to see how water is such a force in this part of the world, how a rainstorm can transform things and change the very nature of just one morning. We all know how precious it is in our part of the world, just to keep our cars washed and laundry done...but today, as I sit watching the rivulets wash their way into the lake, I am acutely aware of rainwater catchments systems all over East Africa that catch this precious resource to provide safe drinking water for countless people. We take much for granted in our part of the world. And as I look at a spider web disassembled by the raindrops on the railing of my porch, I am reminded how fragile yet resilient life is.

The District 9200 conference continues today, and many friendly faces surround us. Attending a District Conference at the end of a GSE trip is ideal, since we have met so many people we now have a Rotary Family of friends to have fun with and celebrate our trip. The Team has spent some time being "tourists" around Kampala, shopping and visiting. Lois has family here, who have taken time to show them around. I have spent most of my time with Conference activities, and getting an East Africa Rotary perspective on the same topics we discuss in our part of the world. It's sort of like watching BBC or World CNN instead of the Americanized news which is so country-centric. I'm getting more of a "world view" of things, and it's both refreshing and revealing. Also, District Friends and Leaders send their greetings, especially to those of you who have visited this District in the past.

We will have our GSE presentation tomorrow and since the conference registration is over 1500 people, it will be a huge audience for us. There are 3 teams here, and while I have a certain amount of prejudice, I believe ours is the strongest and has the best experiences to share with the District 9200 folks--we will be giving examples of things we have observed and learned, places we have visited and stories that have moved us. It will be difficult to stay within our time limits, as there is so, so much to tell. I am looking forward to sharing it all with you in the year to come, as we present to the Clubs at home (and, no doubt, to anyone else willing to listen!!) Thank you in advance for booking a GSE program with your club--I promise it will be worth your while to share some of our experiences!

As our time here draws to a close, we all miss home and family and friends and pets, and are looking forward to being back with you. Keep us in your thoughts as we give our presentations, and we will do our best to represent you well.

Cheers to All from Kampala!

Mai 20, 2007

Hello to All, Rotarians, Friends, Families--

It is our last day on our GSE visit, and we are all ready to be home. We have participated in the District 9200 Conference, which was over last night, with hugs and goodbyes and lots of promises to see each other again. Our GSE presentation was yesterday, and it was a huge success. Each team member shared a story that had been special to them, an experience that made a change in their lives--and the audience was moved by their heart-felt insight.

I was able to sum up several thoughts on Rotary involvement and collaboration, and thank everyone for their hospitality. We were warmly applauded, and many many people came up to each of us to express how well our presentation was received. I'm very proud of everyone's part and involvement, and feel we collectively and individually represented District 5340 and all our sponsoring clubs very well.

This, our last day, finds me contemplating the fun, excitement, and also the intensity of this experience. We have all seen and participated in so much. In the short 30 days since our arrival in East Africa, we have visited 38 facilities/projects, attended 13 Rotary Club Meetings, 3 of them joint meetings of multiple clubs, enjoyed 11 Rotary Fellowship Functions and had fun meeting and talking to so many interesting people, and had 11 Cultural Events, including hikes in protected forests, cultural centers, craft fairs, etc. that gave us some of the beauty and unique features our Kenyan and Ugandan friends wanted to share with us. And all of this included 4 days of more than 8 hours travel on long, dusty, terrible roads, which meant we really did all that in 25-26 days! So just in case anyone thought we have been "on vacation" -- think again! However, I now have several great "vacation" ideas! As I pack up dirty clothes and souveniers, it occurs to me that it will take awhile to get my mind around everything we have seen and been part of, and to catalog the multitude of ideas, thoughts, stories into some kind of order. I am very glad to have notes and journal entries of the places, people, projects we have seen so I won't lose the details with the sensory overload of so much so fast.

We will be with you all again very soon, and are thankful for your support while we have been gone. Adventures like our GSE experience happen in three parts--the first is the excitement and anticipation, second the actual adventure, and third is telling about it afterwards. Get ready, the third part is just about to begin! Wish us safe travels home, and time to relax and share our stories with you. Much has happened, much has been offered to change our thoughts and views, much needs to be done in the world. We have much to tell.

Cheers to All, and we will be home in just under 24 hours!